What do they do and how do they do it?

Meat and fish shop

This is an unusual shop near my house in Phnom Penh.  A huge sign advertises all kinds of meat and fish and some fowl, but there’s basically no store.  There’s just an open area with a small refrigerated display case and a desk–and room to park a couple motorcycles.  What do they sell and how do they do it?  Do they have a catalog or list that people select meats from? And does this shop deliver the order? Or do people come back and pick up their selections?  I have no idea.

Dried and Dirty

Drying meat on the streetLife is lived on the streets–in the streets–in Cambodia.  I’ll have to do a section on that, but here’s an example of the idea.  This is some kind of meat, cut into strips, and then laid out in the sun to dry.  I’m on the back of a motorcycle six or seven feet away, on a very busy street.  This meat will stay there all day, collecting the sun’s rays and also all the fumes and street dust and dirt that a busy road generates.  Is that a concern to local people?  Not a bit.

Water Festival 2

Water Festival flags

I was tempted to go down to the river on this last day of the Water Festival but I ended up doing several tasks that took longer than I thought, and I passed on mingling with the crowds watching the finals of the boat races and the presentation of the trophies.  I did get a picture of the flags flown on our street for the holiday.  People in the United States are maybe the most flag-waving population in the world, displaying the flag everywhere and in any way possible.  Cambodians come a close second when it comes to their flag.

Water Festival

Water Festival

Today is the second day of the three-day Water Festival, the biggest holiday of the Khmer year after the New Year in April.  It’s had a rough recent history, due in large part to the paranoia of the ruling party which is terrified of any gathering of people it can’t control.   And this year about a million or so people from the provinces have descended on Phnom Penh to race their village boats in the Tonle Sap River.  I didn’t get too close to the crowds this year but passed these crews taking a break from paddling and waiting for the next heat to begin.

More Fast Food

Food on the Street

A lot of the business in the informal sector in Cambodia is on wheels, like this food serving cart.  It’s kept in the living room during the night but in the morning is rolled out on to the sidewalk and hooked up to the propane tank.  The large bowls behind the glass will contain several different pre-prepared offerings which can be served on demand.  The prices list at $1.50 or $1.75 for bowl of rice with your selected topping.

Changes in the Church (Building)

Renovations at St. Joseph Church

The English-speaking Catholic community borrows a hall in an old building at St. Joseph Church on the north side of Phnom Penh.  We had been leery of making any renovations because the plan is to tear this building down to build a real church on the rear part of the church compound.  Earlier this year, though, we learned that the planned demolition will not happen for several years so we are going ahead with plans to air condition the hall as cheaply as we can.

One of the first steps was to cover over the ventilation slots you can see at the top of the wall.  They allowed air–and birds–to flow through freely.  We also had to add more lights now that we are having some night-time services here.

This is a picture in mid week when the workmen are getting the room right before adding stand-alone air conditioning units along the walls.

The Informal Economy

Pop up shop on sidewalk

I don’t know the official percentages but a huge part of the economy in Cambodia is informal.  85% are involved in agriculture and most of the non-agricultural people work in the informal economy rather than in established business with 9-to-5 jobs.  Many, many households are running some sort of business out of their homes–maybe in addition to a formal job–and then there are these pop-up businesses everywhere.